As a recruitment company we are regularly asked by our clients to find them a great Grad; someone who wants to contribute to their team and continue with the learning process within their chosen field. We are aware too of the disappointment our client's feel when faced with employing the newly graduated and realising as to how little they actually do know. For some years now we have been suggesting to our candidates fresh out of university to UPSKILL with Don Helier at Pattern Architects. His article below confirms why this is necessary.

By Don Helier Pattern Architects

It would appear that, from the advent of offshore garment manufacturing, a perception developed that patterns, pattern grading, sampling and production would be competently completed from the transmission of garment specifications to offshore factories. As a result, in many companies, the responsibilities of garment technicians expanded to include pattern making and pattern grading.

Where garments such as T shirts and simple knit styles with a minimum of design lines are involved the finished product may be competently manufactured offshore without the involvement, in New Zealand, of a qualified pattern maker, pattern grader and sample machinist. However, where complex designs are involved, particularly where non-stretch fabrics are being used, it is crucial that the Garment Technician has at least a basic understanding of pattern making e.g. how a style/design is developed from a block pattern, and, more importantly, is conversant with pattern grading.

It is totally unreasonable for companies to expect a Garment Technician to calculate precise measurements (specifications) for various parts of a garment e.g. panel design lines etc. over a range of sizes, without an understanding of pattern grading. Even after 30 years' experience as a qualified pattern maker/ grader when confronted with a complex style pattern, I have to analyse how each of the parts will be graded to ensure that they will be in proportion and correspond correctly to one another when being assembled by the machinist.
It is one thing working out grading requirements when you have the individual pattern pieces in front of you, it is quite a different situation when you are viewing a scaled down drawing of the garment, particularly if you have no experience in pattern making and pattern grading.
The actual measuring of the garment is important but is not the critical area. Assessing the correct grade rule (increment) for the various parts of the garment is the critical issue. As is often quoted ‘It is not the big issues that cause the problems, but rather the small ones'. Working out the grade rules for areas such as, half bust or chest, half waist, half hips is reasonably straight forward. However, calculating the correct grade rule for: Neck width, shoulder to shoulder, arm drop, bicep, front and back trouser rises and thigh requires a good understanding (even some experience) of pattern grading.

Over the past 8 years I have been called to investigate inconsistencies and, in many cases, gross errors in garment specifications being used to produce garments offshore. In most cases I have found that the lack of personnel, within the company, with pattern making/grading knowledge was a major contributing factor to the situation.

For a number of years Pattern Architects have provided training for personnel involved in garment specification jobs. Many garment technicians and those seeking such positions are referred to us by local fashion employment agencies. After completing training clients comment on their increase confidence and decreased stress levels at work.

Unfortunately Grads and Clients until the universities train for what the industry actually needs and so far any communication to this end has fallen on deaf ears at the universities, we are going to be continually faced with a shortage of the above skills Don talks about. Grads I know this is extra expense and time when you have already spent 1 - 3 years at university but if you do a course with Don as a post grad course you will have the skills to start you off in the industry. Clients if they make this effort please give them a go. You want intermediates well guess what if there are no juniors in training there are going to be no intermediates.

Submitted by Managing Director, Gaye Harford